PHNOM BAYONG, OFF THE BEATEN TRAILS

About forty kilometers south of the town of Takeo, not far from the border with Vietnam, a small temple dating from the 7th century, Prasat Phnom Bayong, perched on the hill of the same name, offers a breathtaking view of the mountain range from Phnom Den and the plain which extends in the southern part of the provinces of Kandal and Takeo, flooded during almost half of the year.

At the small town of Kirivong on National 2, take the first fork on the right, a small paved road leading straight to the wooded mountains of Phnom Den which rise to the east. After maybe 3 or 4 km only, take a small path on the left barely indicated by a sign with faded colors. Borrowed by motorcycles only, it is this path that will take you to the top of Phnom Bayong.

Road to Phnom Bayong - Kirivong District, Takeo Province - Cambodia

After a few hundred meters of flat road, in the middle of small fields of corn, soybeans, and more surprisingly, turmeric, we reach a very small clearing where some leave their motorbikes to continue the rest of the way on foot. The trail then resumes, winding with much more elevation, it is better to be a fairly experienced motorcycle driver to be sure to arrive at your destination: stones and other roots, crevices and many other small obstacles will not fail to your point of 'arrival.

View over Phnom Bayong - Kirivong District, Takeo Province - Cambodia

However, the view deserves that we lift our nose from the handlebars from time to time, offering splendid panoramas of the surrounding mountains, the flooded plain, rice fields with shimmering green colors (end of the rainy season). A good half hour is necessary to arrive at the foot of the steps which lead to Prasat.

Against all expectations, you will be greeted by two small stalls providing cold drinks, snacks, and ... ticket for your motorbike! Treat yourself to a few moments of respite in the shade of a mango tree, before setting off to storm the 390 uneven laterite steps that you will have to climb before reaching the top of Phnom Bayong, culminating at 313 m. altitude.

390 steps to climb to reach the top of Phnom Bayong - Kirivong District, Takeo Province - Cambodia

A few small huts hanging along the last few meters to go, at the doors of which a few nuns in white clothes installed here to take care of the sacred place are cooking a pot of rice, and we finally come out on a magnificent small alley leading to a temple made of bricks and laterite quite damaged but not lacking in charm.

Prasat Phnom Bayong - Kirivong District, Takeo Province - Cambodia

The temple, 12 meters high, houses, as usual for this type of sacred building, several recent statues of Buddha, of Bramhanic deities, as well as candles and incense.

But it is hidden in a corner of the temple, and after having pointed out to you that your coming to this little frequented temple is probably due to your Nissay (និ ស្ស យ័), a kind of special bond that unites you to this place, that a old man with malicious eyes could offer to read you your future.

The "guardian of the temple", fortune teller - Prasat Phnom Bayong - Province of Takeo - Cambodia

Take the book that will be handed to you, place it above your head, and walk the wand that is handed to you over the edge of the booklet before inserting it between two pages.
This is how you will be able, from the mouth of this gentleman who has been living in Phnom Bayong for years, to learn a little more about your future, through the few sayings that your hand will have chosen from the pages of this little book.

The Fortune Book - Prasat Phnom Bayong, Kirivong District, Takeo Province - Cambodia

In the moment, however, all you have to do is finish the walk, enjoy the fresh air and the shade of the surrounding forest before setting off again on your motorbike for a little acrobatic number that will bring you back to the foot of the mountain.

Waterfalls, which are said to be very pretty, are accessible on foot from the temple, a couple of hours away.