Cave-temples of Phnom Chhngok and Kbal Romeas

On the portion of road 33 connecting Kep to the provincial town of Kampot, after passing a small arm of the river where a few boats are parked, at the level of a small statue of a rhinoceros placed in the middle of the road, you will see on your right a sign at the entrance of a small dirt road indicating the site of Phnom Chhngok.

This road will actually allow you to access two archaeological sites, two small sugarloaf mountains sheltering caves and ancient Brahmanic places of worship.

PHNOM KBAL ROMEAS
The road crosses the recently renovated railway line, and will lead you to a crossroads where there is a volleyball court, a small country café where the local men who come in large numbers on weekends warm up and bet in front of the small TV screen. which broadcasts the matches of Kun Khmer, traditional Khmer boxing.

Go your way and continue straight under the portico of the pagoda. About a hundred meters further on, near a small pig farm "full of life", you will find yourself facing Phnom Kbal Romeas, a small limestone hill that does not look like much at first sight.

Foreigners, pay your entrance fee, 1US $ against which you will be given a ticket.

It is by a small path that one rushes into the cave, and that one enters a first room in the shape of a dome, very dark. After the first rather unpleasant olfactory impression - you enter a house occupied by many bats, a study using a flashlight of the walls of this "antechamber", will make it possible to highlight some animal forms on the reliefs of the wall.

At the entrance to the second room, on your right, there is an astonishing little Buddhist altar installed in a cavity, part of the walls of which have been painted, like the pictorial works that are usually found on the walls. of Vihear from Cambodian pagodas.

The room with its rugged relief is lit by a large well of light, towards which you have to go to see the remains of the Brahmanic sanctuary. Unlike other caves in the region, in Kbal Romeas of the small temple there are only a few sections of brick walls located at the far end of the second room. Retrace your steps and enter a new space on your left. The concretions and the natural arrangement of the rocks give to see a strange animal statuary which will reveal itself with the passage of your torch.

PHNOM CHHNGOK

Exits from the cave turn back and pass the pagoda gate again, this time turn to your right (or to your left if you are coming from route 33), then continue for several km. You will come to a small crossroads, turn to your right and take a rather bumpy path that will lead you near Phnom Chhngok.

You can leave your vehicle at a small tourist tavern run by a young lady who is not lacking in gossip, and take on foot the small path that leads to the foot of the mountain through fields and vegetable gardens.

Pay your -1US $ entry fee for foreigners. Two paths will lead you to the main cave where the famous troglodyte temple is located. Accompanied by local children, choose the "underground" route that will take you from the entry point to the temple located higher up through the small network of caves that surround Phnom Chhngok. Watch out for snakes.

Otherwise take the usual cement stairs, which will allow you to enjoy a magnificent view of the surrounding plains. Various altars placed along the climb will allow you to catch your breath next to more or less recent colorful religious statues that the informed eye will appreciate quite differently.

The main cavity houses a magnificent small brick sanctuary dating from the 7th century - pre-Angkorian period, (erected by the king…). Entering the temple, a linga formed by the concretions of the cave. Drops of water flowing from the wall thus naturally reproduce the gestures of ancient worship.
One will also find on the walls of astonishing "natural sculptures" among which a head of buffalo and an elephant quite bluffing.