The secret temple of Phnom Toteung

The sugarloaf mountains dotting the landscapes of the province of Kampot, so characteristic of the region, contain many hidden treasures ...
Each of these limestone reliefs following one another along road 33 between Angkor Chey and Kompong Trach, deserves to be approached. These mountains are home to many caves and natural cavities, some of which have become, sometimes for a very long time, places of religious worship.

If some of these places, like the Kompong Trach site, have become tourist places which are developing little by little with the support of the local community, others remain much more difficult to access, the inhabitants themselves not not always knowing what the mountains at the feet of which they are installed hide. If the surrounding peasants will however often confirm the presence of caves - while advising you not to go there because, it seems, the snakes are numerous the access not always easy.

Phnom Toteung, near the K-Cement factory - Kampot Province, Cambodia

Against all expectations, it is near a large cement factory exploiting the sides of the mountain (K-Cement or Kampot Cement) that one will reach one of these cave-temples. Phnom Toteung, "the wide mountain" is accessible from road 33. A good ten km after passing Angkor Chey, it is a large "K" in the colors of the company placed just in front of a gas station which will invite you to take a cement road on the right.

Entrance to Prasat Kuhear Preah Kiri Sroh Srong - Kampot Province, Cambodia

If the prospect of visiting the cement factory located on the left flank of Phnom Toteung is hardly stimulating, however, walk along the enclosure after passing in front of the main entrance, skirt the mountain on the right until you reach a small pagoda under construction.

Two or three small buildings, a rudimentary Sala Chan flanked by these naive and - often - poorly painted cement sculptures that are often found in recent places of worship in the countryside, set the tone for this forgotten site in the shade. of Phnom Toteung, Prasat Kuhear Preah Kiri Sroh Srong said 

Koh Tong.

Stairs leading to Kuhear Preak Kiri Sroh Srong Shrine - Kampot Province, Cambodia

Few people visit this place, the villagers living around themselves seem to have forgotten its existence, laments one of the monks living there. It is a place of magical essence, and it would need to be able to maintain it in order to be able to conserve all its historical and spiritual substance, and it would be good if more visitors could come to meditate here, at the same time encouraging residents to maintain this cultural site, he still wishes.

View from Phnom Toteung, cave entrance - Kampot Province, Cambodia

Not far from 250 cement steps, all sloping and uneven, are to be climbed to reach the entrance of the small cave, from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the plain and the surrounding mountains.

Three statues at the entrance to the cave, Phnom Toteung - Kampot Province, Cambodia

Three slightly dusty sculptures guard the entrance to the cave, in the middle we find the silhouette of a Ta Eysei, a hermit recognizable by his attributes, the beard and long hair, the cane and the toothed wheel.

The entrance is narrow, carved directly into the rock, and after having passed the door, the nostrils are quickly assailed by a rather strong odor, due to the numerous bats, permanent residents of the cavity.

Entrance to the cave, access to Prasat Kuhear Preah Kiri Sroh Srong - Kampot Province, Cambodia

A small Brahmanic sanctuary, today protected by a somewhat tinkered wooden structure, seems to be still on its feet. The presence of ancient stalactites above the building suggests that, like at Phnom Chgnok, the temple was erected around a Linga naturally formed by stone and water tasting stalactites.